Era of No Temples
From the accounts of
Herodotus (c.
430 BCE), and from the earliest archaeological sites discovered so far,
that up to the 5th century BCE, Zorastrians "had no temples nor altars,
and consider(ed) the use of them a sign of folly."
Further, Zorastrian scriptures do not prescribe worshipping in a temple
and make no mention of Zorastrian places of worship. Traditionally,
Zorastrians worship individually at home, or in the open, facing a
source of light. When they wished to worship as a community, they did so
in open air gathering areas around a podium where a fire was lit. The
gathering areas were on hillsides and hilltops.
Advent of Fire Houses and Temples
About
400 to 500 years after Herodotus' observations, by the turn of the
millennium, Strabo in the first century ACE, noted that the magi of Cappadocia (now in Turkey), "... have Pyraetheia (fire-houses),
noteworthy enclosures; and in the midst of these there is an 'altar' on
which there is a large quantity of ashes where the magi keep the fire
ever burning." The altar that Strabo refers to is not an altar in the
usual sense. He describes it as a fire holder.
While
the magi during Strabo's time (around the start of the first
millennium) had started to use the fire-houses for their worship
rituals, there is no indication that the community at that time time
joined the Magi in rituals at the fire-houses (atash-gah)
or that the magi worshiped fire as many have suggested. The community
continued to conduct their worship events in the open. Nevertheless, the
fire-houses did eventually become fire temples used by the community.
In subsequent years, enclosed fire temples became standard. Today, there
are no designated or formal open places of worship, and the temples
that do exist are multi-purpose facilities to accommodate community
gatherings (saal, jashans, etc...).
Development of the Fire House Concept
In
ancient times, frequently lighting a new fire would have been
difficult. In addition, maintaining a continuous fire in homes would
have denuded a fragile environment of trees. Zoroastrian communities
therefore developed community fire houses that housed an ever burning
flame tended at all hours by fire keepers. Every evening, the fire
keeper would carefully cover the fire with its ashes so that it would
continue smouldering throughout the night while saving fuel, ready to
resume when the ashes were removed in the morning. When needed,
householders would come and light their house fires from the central
community fire. The fire-houses were central to, and a vital part of
each community. Fire-keeping was a profession supported by the
community.
The fire houses later came to be known in Persian as atash gahs and the fire keepers were called atharvans, a task that became part of the magi's profession.
The
old stories told by elders from generation to generation suggests the
importance of fire and how difficult it was for those in need of it to
get fire going at their homes. Only the privileged had fire, and that
the needy would sometimes walk over to someone else's home to beg for a
bit of fire to take back. (Pire-Kharkan - Golkhandan Ardeshiri)
Chahar-Taqi Fire Temple Design
Together
with the Parthian era fire-temple / fire-house (atash-gah) shown below,
the Ani fire-house is an early example of the fire temple design that
came to be known in Iran as
chahar-taqi meaning four directions.
The walls and openings faced the four cardinal directions. The alignment
of the walls or pillars of the fire-houses with the solar-based
cardinal points has led some to believe that the fire-houses/temples
served an additional function - that of using the position of the sun at
sunrise, noon-meridian and sunset to determine seasons and significant
days of the year. Zorastrians mark these days with festivals, jashnes or
jashans, and they were particular important for farmers in determining
sowing times and for live-stock owners as well. The chahar-taqi design
continued to be used for fire temples during the
Sassanian era, that is up to 650 ACE.
Ani, Armenia, Turkey
 |
| Fire House, Ani, Turkish Armenia, 1st - 4th century ACE. Image Credit: Virtual Ani |
 |
| Map of Turkey showing the location of Ani |
 |
Reconstruction image of the Ani Fire House
Image Credit: Virtual Ani |
Ruins of a fire house (
atash-gah) or fire temple (above and right) have been discovered in
Ani, Turkish Armenia,
the area referred to by Strabo, and dating to the era in which he
lived. The region of which Ani is in close proximity to the environs
around
Lake Urmia and Lake Van in an area that would have been part of the northern reaches of the Media.
The structure has massive pillars and no walls. At a later period the
structure was converted into a Christian chapel by the insertion of
curved walls between its four columns.
The structure which is the oldest building in the Ani site, fits Strabo's description of a Pyraetheia, a fire-house.
The shape of the roof in the reconstruction image of the Ani fire house
above is speculative since among the ruins, there is no evidence of the
roof. It could even have been a dome (see standing chahar-taqi designs
from the same era below). The massiveness of the columns suggests a
stone roof, and stones similar to the rest of the structure (not not
used elsewhere in Ani) have been found in part of the citadel wall built
during the seventh century ACE. Archaeologists surmise that the citadel
stones were taken from the fire house.
Chahar-Taqi Fire Temples in Iran
The
chahar-taqi plan of the Ani fire house is similar to other early
Parthian (247 BCE-224 CE) Sassanian (226-651 ACE) fire temples found in
Iranian. These structures are simple, open, yet substantial (noteworthy
in Strabo's words). They are usually situated within a walled area.
The earliest example of a chahar-taqi temple in present-day Iran that we
have been able to locate is a photograph (see below) taken by
Ali Majdar at Flickr.
Ali Majdar states that the temple dates to the Parthian era 247 BCE-224
CE, and further that its name, Bazeh Khur indicates that the temple
also served as a solar observatory in order to fix dates. Bazeh means
mountain edge and Khur means Sun. This temple is in reasoanble condition
and is located in the eastern province of Khorasan while many of the
other examples we have found are in western Iran.
Note the use of domes. While some may think that the use of domes is an
Arab-Islamic design, the use of domes in Iranian-Zoroastrian structures
predates the former.
 |
Bazeh Khur Fire Temple, Khorasan
One of the oldest Chahar-Taqi temples dating to the Parthian era 247 BCE-224 CE.
80 km s of Mashhad & at Robat Sefid Village's edge. Image credit: Ali Majdar at Flickr |
 |
| Another image of the Bazeh Khur fire temple. Image credit: www.itto.org |
 |
Drawing of Rokn Abad
Sassanian temple
before its destruction |
 |
Rokn Abad Fire Temple ruins near Bido stream at Akbar-Abad 10 km
near Shiraz. Islamic Govt. of Iran's Ministry of Highways ordered
it destroyed even though it was 30m away from the highway |
|
 |
Sassanian Chahar-Taqi at Niasar
near Kashan, Esfahan (Isfahan)
Image Credit: Photographer unknown |
|
 |
Sassanian era Fire Temple Ruins, Esfahan (Isfahan)
Image Credit: Abbas Soltani at Iranian Archives |
|
Surakhani, Azerbaijan Chahar Taqi Temple
About
550 km (330 miles) directly west of Ani, on the coast of the Caspian
Sea in Azerbaijan's Abseron peninsula, there is an enigmatic seventeenth
century CE atash-gah, in the village of Surakhani located fifteen km.
west of the capital Baku. UNESCO has designated the complex as a world
heritage site. The temple ceased to be used in 1883 CE.
This atash-gah follows the chahar-taqi plan.
The are reports of ruins of a 9th century CE fire temple in the Caucasus
mountains at Khynalyg (also spelt Khinalyg, Khinalugh, Xinaliq) village
near Quba (Guba, Kuba), some 165 km northwest of Baku, as well as one
in the neighbouring country of Georgia's capital, Tblisi (see
Sasanika site).
[Surakhani is also spelt Surakhany or Suraxani]
 |
| Map of Caucasus region (Azerbaijan, Armenia and E. Turkey) showing the location of Ani, Quba and Surakhani |
 |
Atash-gah in Surakhani, Baku, Azerbaijan
The surrounding walls form a pentagon. |
 |
Atash-gah in Surakhani, Baku, Azerbaijan
Natural gas fires can be seen burning in the top corners.
The gas rises through ducts constructed in the four corners of the structure.
Image Credit: Various. Advantour & Ecotourism |
The name
Azerbaijan derives
from the Middle and Old Persian Adar-badhagan and Atur-patakan (from
the Avestan atere-pata cf. Farvardin Yasht), meaning protected by fire.
Surakhani derives from the Persian words Surakh meaning hole or Surkh /
Sorkh meaning red, and khani meaning room, source or fountain. The
region is known for its continuously burning natural gas fires which to
the ancients must have seemed like the miraculous phenomenon of an
ever-burning fire -
a symbol of special importance in Zoroastrianism. In ancient texts,
Azerbaijan was known as the land of fire and burning hillsides.
Reference to "the eternal fires of Baku" appears in 5 ACE in a volume entitled
Stories by
the Byzantine author Prisk of Pania. He quotes Romul, the Ambassador to
Rome, who mentioned that when the Hun leaders came to Rome to sign a
peace treaty, they had traveled via the Caucasus along the Caspian Sea
where they had seen "a flame that appears from a rock underwater".
Surakhani - Hindu or Zoroastrian Temple?
There
are twenty inscriptions embedded in the the stone walls of the complex.
Eighteen are in the Nagari Devnagri script, one is in Punjabi using the
Gurumukhi script and one is a bilingual inscription in Sanskrit and
Persian. the bilingual inscription is dedicated to Lord Ganesh, Jwalaji
and fire, and is dated Samvat 1802 (1745-46 CE). The Punjabi language
inscription is a quotation from the Adi Granth.
The other inscriptions include an invocation to Lord Shiva. Taken as a
set, the dates on the inscriptions range from Samvat 1725 to Samvat
1873, corresponding to the period from 1668 CE to 1816 CE. The present
structure is relatively modern and the 17th century is a possible date
for its construction. One report states that local records exist that
the structure was built by the Baku Hindu trading community around the
time of the annexation of Baku by the Russian Empire following the
Russo-Persian War (1722-1723 CE).
Jonas Hanway commenting in his,
An Historical Account of the British Trade Over the Caspian Sea,
1753 CE states "The Persians have very little maritime strength...
their ship carpenters on the Caspian were mostly Indians... there is a
little temple, in which the Indians now worship: near the altar about 3
feet high is a large hollow cane, from the end of which iffues a blue
flame... . These Indians affirm, that this flame has continued ever
since the flood, and they believe it will last to the end of the world.
...Here are generally forty or fifty of these poor devotees, who come on
a pilgrimage from their own country."
The Baku Hindu trading community is thought to have originated primarily
from Multan located in the Punjab region of the Indus valley (in
today's Pakistan) and who plied their trade along the Grand Trunk Road,
part of the old
Aryan trade roads.
The single inscription mentioning Jwalaji venerates natural fires such
as volcanoes and natural gas fires. In the present Indian state of
Himachal Pradesh, there is a Jwalaji temple similarly constructed over a
natural gas fire. The place is called Jwalamukhi, Jwala meaning a
natural fire and Mukhi meaning mouth. There the fire is considered an
incarnation of the goddess Durga.
The complex as it stands was clearly used as a Hindu temple. However,
The complex is quite unlike other Hindu temples. Instead, the pentagonal
perimeter structure consists of cubicles much like a caravan-serai and
in the centre of the enclosed courtyard is a
chahar-taqi building
whose design is entirely consistent with the chahar-taqi Zoroastrian
atash-gahs of Ani as well as those of ancient and medieval Persia. There
is a strong possibility that prior to its use as a Hindu temple, a
predecessor structure existed that was a Zoroastrian fire temple. With
the decline of the Zoroastrian community and an abandoned structure
would have been a candidate for occupation and use by the growing Hindu
trading community. The present structure could have been modelled on a
previous Zoroastrian structure. Alternatively, the present structure
could have been built over the ruins of a Zoroastrian atash-gah or it
could be a renovation of a previous Zoroastrian atash-gah. Even today,
local tradition holds that the structure was a Zoroastrian atash-gah.
Professor A. V. Williams Jackson (1911 CE) while commenting on the
observations of Jonas Hanway (1753 CE), left open the possibility that
Zoroastrians may have worshipped alongside the larger Hindu community at
the shrine. The Sikh community must also have worshipped alongside the
Hindu community.
In the 1800s, the population of Hindus and Sikhs in Azerbaijan declined. Sir Jivanji Jamshedji Modi (1854-1933) in his book
My Travels Outside Bombay Iran, Azerbaijan, Baku (1926)
(translated from Gujerati by Soli Dastur) notes: "the original trade
routes and customs changed and the visits of the Hindu traders
diminished. And from the original group of the Brahmins, some passed
away and a few that were left went back to their original home land." By
the time of Modi's visit in 1925, the Surakhani atash gah had been
abandoned.
According to authors from the 1800s, between the time when the atash gah
was abandoned by the Hindus in the and Modi's visit in 1925, that is,
in the 1800s, the Surakhani atash gah was briefly under the care of
Zoroastrians.
James Bryce, in
Transcaucasia and Ararat: Being Notes of a Vacation Tour in the Autumn Of 1876,
noted, "...after they (the Zoroastrians) were extirpated from Persia by
the Mohammedans, who hate them bitterly, some few occasionally slunk
here (Azerbaijan) on pilgrimage" and that "under the more tolerant sway
of the Czar (Azerbaijan was then part of the Russian empire), a solitary
priest of fire is maintained by the Parsee community of Bombay, who
inhabits a small temple built over one of the springs." (We do know that
in the 1800s, the Parsees of Bombay lent their assistance to the
Zoroastrians of Iran and sought to ameliorate the suffering of their
co-religionists in their ancestral lands.)
A few years earlier, in 1858, French novelist Alexander Dumas (1802 -
1870 CE) had visited the atash gah and noted: "...the whole world is
aware of the Atash gah in Baku. My compatriots who want to see the
fire-worshippers must be quick because already there are so few left in
the temple, just one old man and two younger ones about 30-35 years
old."
In 1905, J. Henry in his book,
Baku , states: "When 25 years ago
(1880), the priestly attendant - a Parsee from India and the last of the
long list of Fire-worshippers reaching 2500 years died at Surakhani."
From these accounts, we gather that the Surakhani atash gah was indeed a
Zoroastrian place of worship, and that for a hundred and seventy years -
from approximately 1660 CE to 1830 CE - it served as a Hindu temple as
well.
Seven Fires
 |
| Central fire at the atash-gah in Surakhani, Baku, Azerbaijan |
For
a Zoroastrian, the presence of seven fires is auspicious and the
presence of seven natural ever-burning fires would have been
particularly auspicious. In the past, seven natural fires burned near
the present temple site. The original presence of seven fires at the
Surakhani atash-gah / fire temple site adds to the likelihood of there
having been a Zoroastrian worship site or fire temple (in the environs)
used by the local population prior to the use of the present structure
by Indian traders.
According to historical sources quoted by Alakbarov, Farid (2003),
before the construction of the Indian Temple in Surakhani at the end of
the 17th century ACE, the local people also worshipped at this site
because of the "seven holes with burning flame".
Engelbert Kaempher, a British traveler, who visited the Surakhani
atash-gah in 1683 writes: "Previously, at about 500 paces distance from
the temple, there could be seen seven holes situated in a single line.
In early times, flames used to erupt from these holes. Then, the fire
disappeared and burst forth at another locale where later the Atash-gah
was built".
From these accounts, it appears that an original worship site where
"local people worshipped" (and not Hindu traders) existed some 500 paces
(say 400 metres) from the present site and that the fires disappeared
causing that site to be abandoned. A fire then appeared at the present
site where an atash gah was built. If the practice of Zoroastrianism in
the region declined after the Arab invasion, the original site as a
Zoroastrian place of worship would have ceased. Then in the 17th century
ACE traders from India adapted or constructed the present structure.

The
primary religion in Iran today is the Shia sect of Islam but the far
older faith of the prophet Zoroaster is still openly practiced,
particularly in the central and northwestern regions of the country.
Zoroaster's name in its original form is found in the sacred scripture
the Avesta as Zarathushtra. It is not possible to say exactly when he
lived but contemporary scholarship has mostly agreed upon the dates of
660-583 BC, with his birthplace being in the region of northwestern Iran
now known as Azerbaijan. Similar to other great sages of archaic times,
Zoroaster's life is part history and part legend. Tales are told of
signs in the sky announcing his coming, of marvels and omens attending
his birth, and of acts of power that he performed as a young boy. Around
the age of twenty he withdrew from the world to seek the divine through
study, wandering and solitary meditation in remote mountain areas. At
the age of thirty he experienced the first of seven mystical visions
from which he developed his spiritual philosophy and initiated his
ministry. In these visions, an angelic entity by the name of Vohu Manah
appeared to Zoroaster and escorted him to the throne of the Creator,
Ahura Mazda. The wisdom teachings he received from Ahura Mazda are given
in the form of seventeen hymns, the Gathas, contained in the Avesta
scripture. The Zoroastrian religion has three central commands of Good
Thoughts, Good Words, and Good Deeds.
Zoroaster
was born in an age of agriculturalists and his religion is therefore
deeply associated with the natural world. Besides its emphasis on the
eternal conflict of good and bad, Zoroastrianism is also characterized
by nature worship, by deification of the sun, moon and stars, and by
scrupulously followed injunctions regarding the protection of the earth.
In the Zoroastrian faith, reverence is shown to the Creator Ahura Mazda
both directly and through the veneration of his various creations and
their supernatural guardians. Fire is believed to pervade the other six
principal creations and is always present at Zoroastrian ceremonies.
During their prayers, believers face towards a fire, or else towards the
sun or the moon, which are regarded as heavenly fires and as Ahura
Mazda himself. Fire is, however, not regarded as a symbol but as a holy
being that comes to man's assistance in return for nourishment and
worship. The veneration of fire is also equated with the invocation of
truth in the mind and heart of the believer.
The
practice of Zoroastrian pilgrimage in contemporary Iran is similar to
that of pre-Islamic Persia, though practiced on a vastly reduced scale.
In the early period of the religion, it seems that the hearth-fire of
each family dwelling was used for worship but that around the 4th century
BC communal temples began to be constructed. Fire temples were built in
villages and cities, and at remote places in the high mountains sacred
rocks, caves and holy springs were venerated. Mythological and
archaeological evidence indicates that these mountain sites had been
pagan sacred places well before the development of Zoroastrianism. The
Greek historian Herodotus, writing in the 5th century BC,
made the comment about the early Zoroastrian use of their mountain
shrines, "It is not their custom to make and set up statues and temples
and altars but they offer sacrifices on the highest peaks of the
mountains." Over the centuries of use, however, these natural sacred
sites were elaborated and simple temples were built. These mountain
shrines, more so than the fire temples of the cities and villages,
became the focus of the Zoroastrian pilgrimage tradition.
With the coming of Islam in the 7th century
AD, Zoroastrianism lost its position as the dominant religion, large
numbers of Zoroastrians converted to Islam, and many remote shrines were
abandoned and forgotten. The mountainous region of central Iran around
the city of Yazd became a stronghold of Zoroastrianism and today remains
the only significant area where shrine pilgrimage is still practiced
according to the ancient traditions. There are six holy shrines (called
pirs or pirangah) in the Yazd region and the yearly pilgrimages to them
are an occasion for the gathering of members of different villages.
Although each village has its own fire temple where initiations,
agricultural festivals and funeral ceremonies are held, the annual
pilgrimages to Pir-e Sabz and the other five mountain shrines are the
most important religious periods of the year. Pilgrims may visit any of
the shrines throughout the year but the religious benefit is considered
greatest when an individual participates in the communal yearly
pilgrimages. Pilgrimage ceremonies at the shrines generally last for
five days and the pilgrimages themselves are referred to by the Muslim
term hajj. Pilgrimage is simultaneously an undertaking of spiritual
significance as well as an opportunity for feasting, music and dancing.
Writing
on the founding legends of the six major shrines in the Yazd region,
Michael Fischer comments that their "mythical origin is a variant of the
Bibi Shahbanu legend, namely, that at the time of the Arab invasion a
daughter or son or member of the court of Yazdegird III fled before an
Arab army towards Khorassan, came to a point of exhaustion near Yazd,
called upon God, and was taken into the mountain, rock, well, or cave
before the bewildered Arab eyes. The second part of the legend concerns a
process of rediscovery. That is to say, the location of these sites of
ascension to the next world was lost. Then, in relatively recent times,
they were rediscovered by a shepherd, child, or other person in need, to
whom a spirit or saint (pir) appeared in a vision or a dream. This
spirit aids the human protagonist by solving the mystery of lost sheep,
lost path, and so on, requesting in return that a shrine be built." This
legend, commonly used by devout Zoroastrians in order to sanctify their
mountain shrines, is however, known to date from an historical period
demonstrably more recent than the shrines themselves. The Zoroastrian
mountain shrines of the Yazd region were used as holy places long before
the birth of Islam and therefore predate any legends associated with
that religion. The six shrines are:
- Pir-e Sabz (Chak-Chak); 72 kilometers from Yazd, near Ardakan; pilgrimage period June 14-18.
- Seti Pir; east of Yazd, pilgrimage period June 14-18, often visited on the way to the shrine of Pir-e Sabz.
- Pir-e Narestuneh (Narestan); Kharuna mountains, six miles east of Yazd; pilgrimage period: later part of June, after Pir-e Sabz.
- Pir-e Banu-Pars; near Sharifabad; pilgrimage period in early July.
- Pir-e Naraki; at the foot of Mt. Nareke, south of Yazd; pilgrimage period in mid-August.
- Pir-e Herisht; near Sharifabad.
The
shrine of Shekaft-e Yazdan (the 'Cleft of God') in the Tutgin valley
near the village of Zardju is sometimes visited after the pilgrimage to
the shrine of Pir-e Banu-Pars. (Another sacred site in the Yazd region
is the Muslim shrine of Haji Khezr, in the town of Kuhbanan.)
Pir-e-Sabz shrine
For
Iranian Zoroastrians, summer begins with the pilgrimage to Pir-e-Sabz.
This remote site is the holiest and most visited of the Zoroastrian
mountain shrines. Shrine legends tell of a conquering Arab army that had
pursued Nikbanoo, the daughter of the Sassanian Emperor Yazdgird III,
to this region. Fearing capture, she prayed to Ahura Mazda to protect
her from the enemy. In the nick of time the mountain miraculously opened
up and gave her protection. This legendary site, where a holy spring
issues from the towering cliff, is also called Chak-Chak, which means
'drop-drop' in Persian. Growing beside the source of the holy spring is
an immense and ancient tree which legends says used to be Nikbanoo's
cane, and the waters of the spring are believed to be tears of grief
shed by the mountain for Lady Nikbanoo. The shrine enclosure, a man-made
cave, is floored with marble and its walls are darkened by soot from
the fires kept eternally burning in the sanctuary. Each year from June
14 to 18, many thousands of Zoroastrians from Iran, India and other
countries flock to the temple of Pir-e Sabz. One of the pilgrim trails
to Chak-Chak is a dirt road starting near the village of Elabad, north
of Yazd. It is a time-honored tradition for pilgrims to stop the moment
they see the sight of the shrine and continue the rest of their journey
by foot. Several roofed pavilions have been constructed on the cliffs
below the shrine and throughout the day and night these are tightly
packed with pilgrims.
Notes on Zoroastrian sacred mountains
Sources
of information on Zoroastrian sacred mountains are found in parts of
Zoroastrian Avesta literature known as Zamyad Yasht and the Pahlavi
Bundahishn.
Mt. Ushi-darena (translated
as 'Support of Divine Consciousness' or 'Sustainer of Divine Wisdom')
is the mountain where Zoroaster attained illumination and received the
revealed knowledge of the supreme god, Ahura Mazda. Another Zoroastrian
saint mentioned in the Avestan Yasht literature, Asmo-Khanvant, also
attained spiritual illumination upon Ushi-Darena. This mountain appears
to be situated in the Mt. Alborz range near Azerbaijan, Zarathustra's
traditional birthplace. The Bundahishn, however, places it in Seistan
(or Sajestan), east of Iran in the region referred to in the Avesta
(Vendidad I, 9-10) as Vaekereta, the ancient name of Kabul (or
Sajestan). The Greeks called in Dranjiana and in the Pahlavi writings it
is known as Hushdastar.
Mt. Asnavant,
now known as Mt. Ushenai in the Azerbaijan region near the sacred lake
of Chaechasta (also known as Urumiah). Asnavant is another mountain
where Zarathustra lived for a number of years practicing solitary
meditation. In the Bundahishn, Mt. Asnavant is referred to as the seat
of Adar Gushasp, the Sacred Fire. It is on this mountain where
Zarathustra is believed to have gained the power and energy to go out
into the world as a great spiritual teacher, while it was on Mt.
Ushi-Darena that he achieved the realization of that which he later
taught. The legends of Mt. Asnavant indicate that it has a power that
dispels ignorance and develops purity.
Mt. Hara-Berezaiti,
identified as Mt. Alborz. The Bundahishn mentions as existing at this
mountain a "Bridge of Judgement" or "Bridge of Moral Discrimination"
which is a pathway leading to the Otherworld. This bridge or pathway is
supposed to run between two mountains, Chakad-e-Daitik and the Arezur
ridge of Mt. Alborz. The Zoroastrian scriptures tell of a saintly king,
Yima Vivanghvant, who received the power of prophecy from Ahura Mazda
upon this mountain.
For further information on the sacred sites and pilgrimage practices of Zoroastrianism, consult the following sources:
- A Persian Stronghold of Zoroastrianism; by Mary Boyce; Oxford Press; 1977
- Sacred Circles: Iranian (Zoroastrian and Shi'ite Muslim) Feasting and Pilgrimage Circuits; by Michael Fischer; in Sacred Places and Profane Spaces, edited by Jamie Scott; Greenwood Press, New York; 1991
- The Zoroastrians of Iran: Conversion, Assimilation, or Persistence; by Janet Amigh; AMS Press, New York; 1990
- Zoroastrianism in Armenia; by James Russell; Harvard University Press, Cambridge; 1987
Additional notes on Zoroastrian pilgrimage and sacred sites:
Geographical characteristics and the origin of the Zoroastrians' pilgrimage places in Iran
Introduction
Probably
the most important holy places in Iran for Zoroastrians are pilgrimage
places near Ardakan, Aghdâ, Mehriz, and Yazd, located in Yazd province,
central Iran. These holy places are visited every year by hundreds of
Zoroastrians not only from different parts of Iran, but also from
different parts of the world. The aim of this article is to highlight
the significance and characteristics of these historical and religious
places.
The
pilgrimage places that will be considered in this article are: Pir-e
Sabz, Pir-e Herisht, Pir-e Narestaneh, Pir-e Banoo, and Pir-e Naraki.
Geographical locations
Except
Pir-e Herisht, all other pilgrimage places are located on or near the
mountainous slopes. The locations of these pilgrimage places are shown
in table 1. The nearest of these holy places to Yazd is Narestaneh and
the furthest one is Pir-e Banoo.
Table 1: The locations of Zoroastrians' pilgrimage places compared to the Yazd and other nearest cities.
| Pilgrimage Place | Location compared to Yazd | Location compared to other cities |
| Pir-e Sabz | 65 km northwest | 40 km northeast of Ardakan |
| Pir-e Herisht | 90 km northwest | 15 km northeast of Ardakan |
| Pir-e Narestaneh | 30 km north | _______ |
| Pir-e Banoo | 110 km west | 12 km south of Aghdâ |
| Pir-e Naraki | 55 km southeast | 15 km west of Mehriz |
Pir-e
Sabz (Chak Chaku) is located on the slope of Chak Chak Mountain in an
abandoned area (Plate 1). A secondary road from Ardakan to Khorânagh
village is passing in 14 km distance. Pir-e Herisht was built on a small
hill and it is about 5 km from a secondary road to Khor (means sun) in
the heart of the Dasht-e Kavir (The Great Kavir). A small farm and
spring, called Howz-e Gowr (Zoroastrian pool), is the nearest place to
the Herisht located at 14 km distance near the road towards the Khor.
Narestaneh
is located in one of the valley sides of the Narestaneh Mountain, which
is also a remote place. The nearest village to this holy place is
Dorbid located 7 km to the north. The last time (1990) that I visited
this village two shepherd families were living there. One of the
shepherds pointed to the remnants of an old fire temple of Dorbid. It
had been demolished and levelled to the ground by local people (mainly
from the city) who wanted to build a mosque instead.
Pir-e
Banoo is the furthest pilgrimage place to Yazd and is located in one
the several valleys inhabited by local farmers, shepherds and hunters.
It is near to Aghdâ, an area full of ancient Persian names, as well as,
new Arabic names. Persian names such as Ormudeh, Ashtigah (peace
place!), Desgin, Parpar, Haftador (Hapt Ador = Seven Fire) seems to be
historical.
Archaeological characteristics
No
archaeological evidence has been found in these holy places so far to
suggest antiquity or very ancient age of the features. Probably the
oldest building belongs to Pir-e Banoo could not be older than 200 years
due to its architectural elements and materials and also according to
the existed inscriptions. Possibly the older buildings or structures had
been demolished naturally or during rebuilding process.
One
can assume that these places were important for many centuries, before
the renewing of the firealtar buildings took place. Although the
archaeological evidence is absent in these places there are some
evidence from nearby areas. In the Aghdâ Mountain near Zarjoo village
(adjacent to Pir-e Banoo) a historical cave has been found with evidence
of compacted and cemented remnants of debris from a fireplace. Nobody
until now has tried to investigate the exact age of the inhabitancy of
this cave and the age of the fireplace. In the Naraki case, for
instance, several archaeological tools and sculptures have been found
near Mehriz, which have been interpreted as Achaemenid remnants.
However, there is no clue to find out any relationship between the
archaeological evidence found in nearby areas and the occurrence of the
holy places.
There
are rumours among the local peoples about historical treasures, which
have been found by local shepherds and foreign passengers. Local people
talking about points that they have found coins, broken jewellers,
dagger, and human skeletons around the pilgrimage places. Unfortunately,
in several cases, the archaeological evidence of human activities have
been removed or destroyed by persons who were looking for valuable
treasures.
Theories on the origin of these holy places
One
of the earliest and most conventional theories about the origin of
these holy places is related to the time of Arab invasion. The beginning
of the event, according to this theory, is related to the chasing of
the daughters or relatives of Yazdgerd the Third, the last Sassanian
king of Iran by foreign invaders. The family of the king, and
particularly his daughters with their treasures, were moving towards
Khorasan. Khorasan is located to the northeastern part of the country
and it was much larger than today during the Sassanian period. The aim
of the Yazdgerd relatives was to escape from the Arab invaders to a
safer place far away from Pars, which was the mainland of Sassanian. The
legend stories explain that during the journey towards Khorasan when
Yazdgerd family reached to the Aghdâ Mountains the chasers were very
near to catch them. As a result, the relatives of the king separated
into different groups and tried to escape into different mountains. The
legend concluded that in the last minutes of the journey when the
travellers were near to be captivated the innocent girls or women prayed
to the God for protection. Consequently, the God helped them and they
were disappeared into the opening fissures or buried by falling rocks.
Old Zoroastrians explain that many years ago a petrified colourful cloth
was visible near Pir-e Banoo and they believe that it was part of a
woman dress. However, the conglomerate rocks of Pir-e Banoo area are
full of colourful stones, which resemble colourful clothes (plate?).
The
second theory is similar to the first one but, in this version, the
internal rebels are replaced with foreign invaders. According to this
theory, during the wars between Sassanian army and Arabs at western
border of Persia, there were upheavals inside the country by some of the
opposition groups. The son (or one of the relatives) of Bahrâm
Chubineh, a grand general of the previous king (Khosro Parviz), for
example, leaded one of these opposition groups. Whatever the reason
behind the conflict, the rebels tried to cut the Yazdgerd family during
their journey towards Khorasan, most likely to pillage the kingdom
treasury, which they carried away. The rest of the story is the same as
the first one: disappearance of the innocent people (particularly girls
and women) inside the suddenly opened ground.
The
third narrative, which is also related the origin of some of the
Moslems holly buildings (imamzadeh) in Iran, related to the most
economical point of view. According to this theory, these holy places,
or their nearby lands, were the hiding places of treasures of the
Yazdgerd or other Sassanian nobles. During their escape from the Arab
invaders, or from internal rebels, the chance of rescue was much lower
if they stuck to their heavy treasures. On the other hand, if the
climate conditions were drier than the present time, which meant less
access to water, there was no need to have the chasers behind for get
ridding of the heavy and dangerous cargo. This was probably the case, if
they had lost their horses or mules and had to continue the rest of the
journey by walking. As a result, according to this theory, they buried
the treasures wherever possible with more or less a vague record about
their burial locations. The holiness of those places were created
afterward either by local people, who were interested in keeping the
treasures safe, or by the survivors if any.
The
forth notion about the origin of these holy places is related to the
Anahita (in Avesta: ardevi sura anahita). Anahita was the goddess or
Izad of water, rain, rivers, love, motherhood and birth (Frahvashi,
1987). Although from those holy places only two, Pir-e Sabz and Naraki,
have waterfalls at the present time such features may have been more
active during the wetter conditions of historical times (Mobed Rostam
Shahzadi, personal communication, March 1989). Furthermore, rivers and
springs were much more active in these places during that period, while
nowadays there are some small amounts of underground water or narrow
intermittent streams. Waterfalls and springs within such places had been
functioned as the holy place of Anahita, probably earlier than
Zoroastrian period, under Mithraism effects. One can assume the water in
such arid environments was too precious and praiseworthy that the
occurrence of springs, waterfalls and rivers was connected to Izad
Anahita as the source of this valuable features.
A
clue for this idea is that most of these holy places are initiated in
relation to the women rather than men. For example, Banoo in Pir-e Banoo
means lady or gentlewoman. Another example is Pir-e Sabz, which is
related to Hayat Banoo, a holy woman although with an inverted Arabic
name. There is also a similar story for the initiation of Pir-e Naraki
in relation to a holy lady. All of these relationships together,
according to this theory, could be originated by the effect of Izad
Anahita, which then, converted to more acceptable story of Yazdgerd
daughters and later on due to necessity converted to the story of those
holy ladies with Arabic names.
The
fifth and the last theory is the "immigration stations theory". I
believe that these important and valuable pilgrimage places were, in
fact, a chain of stations and the last farewell places towards the
India. After 1100 AD (5th century of khorshidi) the immigration of
Zoroastrians towards east was accelerated due to a rapid increase in
hardship life and limitation on their activities. Zoroastrians all over
Persia, from Azerbaijan and Aran (Eran), to Susiana (Khuzistan); and
from Alborz to Zagros Mountains, were subject of continues
discrimination and persecution afterwards. As a result, a wave of
immigration continued with movement of several groups of people towards
the east.
Yazd
and Ardakan deserts had two remarkable characteristics; one was their
isolation from the other parts of Iran, and another was their central
location within the Persia. The isolation was due to the occurrence of
extensive deserts and kavirs around the Yazd-Ardakan area and this area
(with Nain) was geographically the central part of the Iranian Plateau.
On the other hand, one can assume that during those dark and harsh days
the Zoroastrians caravans were trying to do not attract any attentions.
As a result, it was reasonable to avoid crossing major roads and cities.
The vital needs of the caravans were water and food, both of these were
relatively available in the abandoned mountainous areas of Aghda,
Ardakan and Yazd. The wild goat, wild sheep and partridge were much more
abundant than today and the water supply was probably better than now
due to a wetter climate.
Whether
or not those holy places were functioning during those days as
pilgrimage, they were used as stations during the long journey of
Zoroastrians towards the east. Varieties of Zoroastrian accents in Yazd,
Ardakan and Taft areas could be a testimony to the effect of such
immigration and mixture events. It was highly possible that many of
those travellers settled down in Ardakan, Yazd, Aghda and Taft areas.
These
places may have also been used as temporary shelters during local or
regional disturbances when the Zoroastrians were seriously under
pressure. For example, the period of Sultan Hosain Safavi, the last king
of Safavi dynasty, was one of the darkest sequences of Zoroastrians
history. During the last few months of the Sultan Hosain life,
Zoroastrians were seriously under attack and persecution. There are some
oral memories about those days with Zoroastrians escaping to the
mountain areas of Isfahan, Nain, Aghda, Ardakan and Yazd. During such
suffering times the local mountains with a suitable source of water were
more likely of high interest for Zoroastrians. Although those dark days
have finished the Zoroastrians still come together in these "piroon"
places whatever the origin and reason of their genesis are. These
pilgrimages at the present time are not only functioning as praying
places but also they are, at the same time, lovely places for
entertainment and happiness.
Conclusion
The
Zoroastrians pilgrimages of Yazd are conventionally believed to be
originated from the end of Sassanian dynasty as the martyrdom places of
Yazdgerd daughters. There is also another notion, which consider these
places as Anahita worships in origin.
Considering
the geographical, geological and historical conditions of the
Yazd-Ardakan area, the holy places may were functioned as temporary
shelters for Zoroastrian caravans travelling towards India.
They
deserved to be holy places, whether or not their holiness belongs to
Anahita or to the King Yazdgerd daughters. They deserved to be
pilgrimage places because they carry a long history of faith,
resistance, love, hope and survival.
Reference:
Dr Daryoush Mehrshahi FEZANA Journal,USA, Fall 1999, p.55-57.
Door of the inner sanctum, temple of Chak Chak